April 2026
It is not far from the Drakensberg Mountains in South Africa to Lesotho. The Kingdom of Lesotho is a landlocked country in the Maloti Mountains, formerly known as Basutoland, that is completely surrounded by South Africa. It was able to remain independent because King Moshoeshoe I formed an alliance with the British, and the country became a British protectorate in 1868 and later a crown colony. It gained independence from Great Britain in 1966.
The country holds a world record: it is the country with the highest lowest point of any nation, located at 1,400 meters above sea level. This means the entire country lies above 1,400 meters.
While it was pleasantly warm during the day, it got bitterly cold at night. Luckily, almost all the accommodations were equipped with electric heated blankets which I hadn’t seen before that were placed on the mattress and kept me warm all night long with three heat settings. What a great feature!
Since the country is mountainous and rugged, I spent several hours at a time traveling on rough roads to get from one valley to the next.
Table of Contents
Caledonspoort Border Crossing
Crossing the border from South Africa into Lesotho went smoothly. I was the only one there. Of course, my passport was stamped, but neither my car documents nor my luggage were checked.
Right after the border, I was able to buy a SIM card in a corrugated-iron shack, which was perfect, since roaming is very expensive in Lesotho. It took me about an hour to get from the border to my simple lodging. The shower and toilet were nearby in a small house, but I was given a bucket so I could pee at night and didn’t have to go out into the cold.
The Area Around Liphofung Cave
I came to this area to visit Liphofung Cave the next day. On the day I arrived, I was given a tour of the village of Ma Molapo.
The traditional houses are all round and have thatched roofs.
Landscapes
St. Peters High School
This was the only classroom with screens. The other classrooms looked less conducive to learning.
Next, we visited the health center, where the focus is not only on prenatal care but also, and above all, on HIV testing and treatment.
Visit to a sorghum beer brewer
This beer, made from sorghum malt (Mabele), cornmeal (Poone), and water, is brewed throughout the highlands using simple equipment. It has a sour, smoky flavor and an alcohol content of 3–5%. On the right is the brewer; on the left are two customers who have likely had a few too many drinks.
Next, we came to the home of a fortune-teller, but since I’m not superstitious, I decided not to have my fortune told. Now I regret it, because what she would have said would certainly have been interesting.
A cornfield with colorful flowers
I had planned to hike the roughly 8 km to Liphofung Cave the next day, but it rained all day. So I stayed at my lodging and worked on the computer.
The next morning, the sky was blue again. Thus, I drove to the cave before heading to my next destination.
Liphofung Cave
The cave is more of a shelter in a small gorge carved out by the Hololo River. Besides the petroglyphs, I loved the atmosphere created by the plants and the waterfall.
As in the Drakensberg Mountains, the indigenous San people were also artistically active here. However, the rock paintings here had faded and were not in as good condition as those at Thendele Camp.
On the way to my next destination
The 70-kilometer drive to the nearest mountain valley took about two hours.
The area around Maliba Lodge
On the afternoon of the day I arrived, I immediately set out on a circular hike that the front desk had recommended. Halfway through, however, I couldn’t continue on to the three waterfalls because the river was so high from recent rain that I couldn’t cross it. On the way back, the trail was no longer maintained and ended in thick brush, so I had to turn around and walk back the same way.
The next day, the weather was bad. On top of that, there were no other hiking options, so I stayed at the lodge. At least the food was good and the internet was fast thanks to Starlink. For me, this was the least appealing part of Lesotho.
Mafika Lisiu Pass
The 170-kilometer drive to Katse Dam, which took me over the Mafika Lisiu Pass, thrilled me all the more.
View of the mountain pass road from the 3,091-meter-high pass
Katse Dam and Lake
On the other side of the pass, I reached the valley of the dammed Malibamatšo River.
The dam is a joint project between Lesotho and South Africa and is part of a water system that will ultimately comprise five dams and tunnels. Lesotho can generate electricity, and the Johannesburg metropolitan area in South Africa benefits from the water diverted there. At 185 meters high, it is the second largest dam in Africa.
As everywhere else in Lesotho, there were almost no tourists. I was the only one on the tour inside the wall. Photography wasn’t allowed there.
A sheep with the characteristic curved horns near the dam
In the nearby village, there are red corrugated-iron kiosks of the local mobile phone company.
Bokong Nature Reserve
This nature reserve, which includes the Lepaqoa Waterfall and the surrounding valley, is located 26 km from the dam. From the visitor center, I hiked to the waterfall in 30 minutes, enjoying views of the steeply sloping valley along the way.
Lepaqoa Waterfall
Young people in the nearby village of Lejone, where I was staying
The settlement pictured near Lejone was originally a village for the dam construction workers and has now become Motebong Lodge.
Ha Kome Caves
It took me about 3 hours and 150 km to reach these caves, which turned out to be a disappointment. The road was so bad during the last few kilometers that I could only drive at a snail’s pace; eventually, I parked the car and continued on foot.
These caves served as a hideout from enemies in the late 18th century. The name derives from the Kome family, who were the first to inhabit the caves.
There were a few rock paintings, but they were barely visible.
The area around the caves
Semonkong and the Maletsunyane Waterfall
From my lodging in the village of Teyateyaneng, it took me more than three hours to cover the 150 km to the next remote mountain valley with the village of Semonkong.
Semonkong
Semonkong looked bleak in the rainy weather.
The dilapidated tower and the overgrown grass runway at Semonkong Airport. It seems there haven’t been any flights here for quite some time.
I stayed at the beautiful Semonkong Lodge, where this spiral aloe, with its geometric pattern, grows. It is the national flower of Lesotho.
Here, too, the road was so bumpy that I could only drive to the lodge very slowly. In addition, there was no electricity between 10 p.m. and 8 a.m., so there were no electric blankets. Instead, a fire was lit in the room’s open fireplace in the evening.
Maletsunyane Waterfall
I came to this remote area to admire the Maletsunyane Waterfall. It took me about an hour to hike through swampy terrain to the waterfall.
Horses are the best mode of transportation here, as there are hardly any roads, and those that do exist are in very poor condition. The rider in front is wearing a traditional, intricately crafted Basotho hat.
The Maletsunyane Falls in all their glory! Here, too, only a handful of tourists were marveling at the 192-meter-high waterfall, the tallest uninterrupted waterfall in Southern Africa. It was the highlight of my trip to Lesotho!
Boala-Thapo Viewpoint
Another waterfall is visible from the other side of the valley.
I drove back down toward the valley in 2.5 hours.
Hardly had I pulled over to the side of the road when children came running up, excited to have their picture taken.
I checked into a secluded lodge where I was the only guest. Its main advantage was its proximity to the starting point of the hike to a waterfall, which I set out on that afternoon.
Hike to Qiloane Waterfall
The hike took 1.5 hours and led through stunning scenery.
These people live in isolation, without electricity, running water, or the internet.
The striking waterfall
After this impressive encounter, I walked back to the starting point for another hour and a half.
A great hike!
Sani Wines Lesotho
On my way to the capital, Maseru, I spotted a sign for a winery—the only one in Lesotho—by the side of the road. I didn’t know that wine was produced even in high-altitude Lesotho. Luckily, the winemaker was there and showed me around.
It is a small winery with a current annual production of 6,800 bottles, operated as a side business. The owners want to continue growing and are experimenting with additional grape varieties. At 1,800 meters, the climate is cool. Consequently, the winery faces significant challenges with fungal diseases.
Kananelo Thamae, one of the owners, who had gained experience in winemaking in South Africa
The winery has two wines in its lineup: a Chenin Blanc white wine, which didn’t impress me, and a Pinotage, which I enjoyed. As the ‘Spioenkop’ winery in the Elgin wine region has already demonstrated, excellent Pinotage wines can also be produced in cooler areas. Nevertheless, I was surprised that Pinotage holds up so well even in much colder regions like Lesotho.
Maseru
I spent my last few days in Lesotho in the capital, Maseru. Located at an elevation of 1,600 meters, the city has over 300,000 inhabitants. Nevertheless, it feels like a large village, as there are no tall buildings and the city spreads out over a large area. There are no real sights to speak of. One interesting spot was a house shaped like a Basotho hat, where overpriced souvenirs from Lesotho were sold. The most noteworthy attractions were the two shopping centers, “Pioneer Mall” and “Maseru Mall,” which also catered to the high-end market.
View from the “Maseru Mall” of a hill in the city.
After two weeks in Lesotho, I left the country via the “Maseru Bridge” border crossing, located just a few kilometers from Maseru. I was in for a surprise there, as I had assumed I would receive another 90-day stay permit upon entering South Africa. However, the border official made it clear to me that, since I was entering by land from Lesotho, she could only grant me a 7-day visa. I hadn’t read that anywhere. But I was lucky, because my plan was to leave South Africa on exactly the 7th day anyway.
On the way back, I spent a night in the run-down South African town of Harrismith and then drove the roughly 300 km back to Durban, where I returned the rental car.
After a few days in Durban, I flew via Johannesburg to the island of Nosy Be in Madagascar.
Lesotho has only a few sights, and it was cold, especially at night, but the friendly people and the landscapes with their villages of round houses make Lesotho worth visiting.