September/October 2025
I stay at home during the school summer holidays. That’s when families with school-age children should travel. But in September, I like to visit southern Europe. This time, I discovered three Balkan countries that had been on my list for a long time. I first flew to Sarajevo in Bosnia and Herzegovina and traveled for a month by rental car via Montenegro to Albania and back via Montenegro to Sarajevo, where I returned the car. A colleague accompanied me for the first 10 days.
Table of Contents
Bosnia and Herzegovina
Sarajevo
Sarajevo has had an eventful history. The assassination of the heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne, Archduke Franz Ferdinand, and his wife on June 28, 1914, in Sarajevo was the trigger for World War I, in which around 17 million people died. Austria-Hungary’s initial response to the assassination was merely to teach Serbia a lesson, but the promises of support from various countries ultimately led to a global war. In 1984, the Winter Olympics were held here. Just a few years later, the city was the scene of the Bosnian War, during which it was besieged and bombarded for almost four years.
Fortunately, those times are over.
I initially spent one night in Sarajevo and picked up a rental car the next morning, which I used to travel around for a month.
The restored town hall
The Sebilj, a wooden fountain dating back to the 18th century, is a landmark of the city.
Of course, we wanted to try the national dish, ćevapčići, right away. These are minced meat sausages served in a flatbread with kajmak, a type of sour cream. It was delicious.
Ramsko Jezero Lake
On the way to our first destination, Mostar, we made a detour to see this beautiful artificial lake, which was created in 1968 by the construction of a dam for electricity generation.
Necropolis Dugo Polje
We also passed this 13th-century burial site, which was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2016.
Mostar
The city gained notoriety during the Bosnian War when its famous 16th-century bridge, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was destroyed. After the war, the bridge and the old town were rebuilt. Today, the city is once again a tourist magnet, and rightly so, as the photos show.
Cats are everywhere in Mostar.
Our breakfast table with a view of the bridge
Inside the mosque
The next two pictures are of the Biscevic House, which is now a museum.
The bullet holes from the Bosnian War are still visible at this now abandoned shopping center.
Millennium Cross
The 33-meter-high cross on a hilltop is the largest in Bosnia and Herzegovina and a place of pilgrimage.
View of the city of Mostar from the cross
Fortica Hill
Another viewpoint overlooking Mostar
In addition to a café, there is also a viewing platform.
Kravica Falls
These impressive waterfalls are located 40 km south of Mostar. Over a length of 120 meters, the Trebižat River plunges 25 meters into the depths.
Medjugorje
In 1981, six children reported that the Virgin Mary had appeared to them. For a long time, the Vatican did not recognize the Marian apparition and even banned pilgrimages to this place. This did not impress the faithful. Up to a million pilgrims visit this place every year. In 2024, the Holy See lifted its ban. The apparition has brought incredible prosperity to this previously little known town.
In the church
The faithful stand in line to touch the legs of a larger-than-life statue of Jesus.
Sutjesta National Park
150 km further east, we arrived at Sutjesta National Park, founded in 1962, the oldest national park in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Hike to Lake Trnovačko
After driving along an unpaved road, we reached the parking lot where our hike began.
On the hike
The lake is located in Montenegro. There is a small border station at the lake where we received an entry stamp for Montenegro.
The lake was wonderfully idyllic!
Museum of the Battle of Sutjeska
The next day before our departure, we visited the memorial of the Battle of Sutjeska in 1943, one of the bloodiest battles of World War II in Yugoslavia. Partisans fought against German and Italian soldiers.
The museum displays horrific scenes of war.
Montenegro
After driving south for about three hours and crossing the border, we reached the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro. Thanks to its wonderful location in a winding bay, also known as Europe’s southernmost fjord, Kotor is a tourist center.
Kotor
Herceg Novi on the Bay of Kotor
This picturesque town is located at the entrance to the bay.
Old Town of Kotor
Settled for thousands of years, it was the Venetians who shaped the city during their rule from 1420 to 1797, and their influence can still be seen today.
View of the illuminated city walls of Kotor from the opposite side of the bay
Petar II Petrović-Njegoš Mausoleum
High above the city, after countless hairpin bends and 30 kilometers of driving on a narrow road, stands this mausoleum, where one of the most important poets and philosophers of Montenegrin and Serbian literature is buried.
View on the way to the mausoleum
Inside
View from the mausoleum to the other side
Another view on the way back to Kotor
The Horizon Bar
Boat tour in Kotor Bay
Another highlight was a boat tour in Kotor Bay.
Hidden away in the bay is a submarine tunnel built by the Yugoslavian army in the 1970s. Our boat captain played the James Bond theme song loudly, which perfectly matched the scene.
The Blue Grotto was not completely blue because the light was not hitting it at the right angle.
There are several fortifications at the entrance to the bay. The photo shows Arza Fort, which was built by Austria-Hungary in the 19th century.
We then stopped at an island where a church stood.
View from the island to Perast, another idyllic town on the bay
Ascent to Kotor Fort
Kotor Fort, also known as Fort San Giovanni, is located 260 meters above the bay.
First, I came across this enchanted church.
Views of the old town
Budva
The coastal town, located 23 km from Kotor, is Montenegro’s most famous seaside resort and is mainly visited by Russians, Serbs, and other Eastern Europeans.
The beach
The citadel of the town
Calamari for dinner in the old town. It was as good as it looks!
Sveti Stefan
The peninsula, located about 10 km from Budva, has been completely built up over time. Since 2009, the entire peninsula has been a 5-star resort, the ‘Aman Sveti Stefan’. Non-guests are therefore not allowed to enter the premises.
A beach on the Budva Riviera
Petrovac
On my day trip with the rental car, I also visited the seaside resort of Petrovac, 20 km from Budva.
Crystal clear water
Cetinje
After driving 30 km into the interior of the country, we reached the capital of the former Kingdom of Montenegro, the small town of Cetinje with a population of 13,000.
Blue Palace
This is still the official residence of the Montenegrin president today.
Lipa Cave
This karst cave is located just 5 km from Cetinje. It was discovered in the 19th century after a dog fell into this hole, survived, and began barking.
It is 2.5 km long. As the pictures show, it is very impressive.
Ivan Winery
24 km further west towards our destination for the day, Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro, we visited this small winery. The wines and the cold platter were delicious.
We tasted a wine directly from the steel tank.
Podgorica
Podgorica is the capital and, with 170,000 inhabitants, the largest city in the country. Here we found excellent restaurants, such as the Diplomat, and interesting museums.
The Clock Tower is located in the old town and dates back to the Ottoman period, which began in the 18th century.
The modern market
The ‘Museum and Gallery’ has the largest art collection in the city. On the one hand, it houses a museum with historical exhibits, and on the other hand, it is a gallery with interesting works of art. The photo shows the gallery.
A statue of Russia’s most famous poet, Alexander Pushkin (1799–1837), can also be found in the city.
Opened in 2005, the Millennium Bridge over the Morača River is one of the city’s landmarks.
The 960-meter-long and 195-meter-high Moračica Bridge was built by a Chinese company for €70 million. It is part of the A1 motorway, which ends in the middle of nowhere in the Montenegrin mountains and therefore serves little purpose.
Morača Canyon
Our destination was the Spomenik Morača monastery in the impressive canyon.
The next day, my colleague traveled on to Italy, and I drove from Podgorica to the Albanian border, which took about 30 minutes by car.
Albania
Immediately after crossing the border, I noticed the many potholes in the roads. Albania is clearly the least developed of the three countries I visited. After about 45 minutes, I reached my first destination, the city of Shkodër.
Shkodër
It is the fourth largest city in Albania with around 100,000 inhabitants and looks back on a long history. The area was already settled in the Bronze Age from 4,000 BC.
This photo shows how narrow the side streets are. My Airbnb host searched for a parking space for me on his scooter where I could squeeze my car in. As everywhere else on my Balkan trip, parking and maneuvering were extremely difficult due to the limited space.
Shkodër Fort
View of the city from the fort
As I arrived on a Sunday and all the currency exchange offices were closed, the man at the castle entrance let me in for free after I explained my situation and mentioned that I had walked an hour from the city to the castle and didn’t want to leave empty-handed.
The strategically important hill between two rivers has been home to fortified structures for thousands of years. Most of the current fortress dates back to the Venetian period (13th century). In the 15th century, the Ottomans conquered the city and the fortress.
The Mosque of Shkodër
Nightlife
Theth
I continued driving around 75 km along a narrow, winding road into the Albanian mountains to Theth, a village located at an altitude of 750 meters, where Christians fled around 350 years ago. The road was only paved a few years ago and is often impassable during the winter months. Since 2022, the area has been protected by Theth National Park.
The church of Theth
Hike to Blue Eye Lake
The most beautiful hike is the one to Blue Eye Lake. It is 11 km long. I reached the lake in about 3 hours.
I set off early and had the lake almost to myself when I arrived. It really is a worthwhile hiking destination!
and from further up
As I left the lake, hordes of people came towards me. I don’t think these people were able to experience the magic of the place.
The river further down
On the way back
Grunas Waterfall
Halfway, I took a detour to visit this waterfall. Impressive!
and with a dog
Tirana
From Theth, I drove the 175 km to the capital Tirana in around 3½ hours. Driving in this city was quite an adventure. Often, there were only a few centimeters between my car and the other traffic participants, who didn’t follow any rules. So it was no surprise that virtually all the cars had dents in them. My car also had a few minor scratches when I picked it up. After making it to the underground parking garage of my accommodation with high pulse, I didn’t touch my car again during my stay in Tirana, but got around on foot or by taxi.
Skanderberg statue
This is where I first encountered Skanderberg (1405–1468), Albania’s national hero. He was the most important military leader in the fight against the Ottomans.
Namazgah Mosque
Opened in 2024, this mosque is the largest in the Balkans, with a capacity of 10,000 worshippers. Turkey covered part of the construction costs.
The Bazaar
Orthodox Cathedral of Resurrection
This Orthodox church was consecrated in 2012 and is one of the largest in the Balkans.
Et’hem Bey Mosque
This historic mosque, located right next to the main square and dating back to the 18th century, impresses visitors with its colorful frescoes.
Tirana Pyramid
This structure was opened in 1988 as a museum in memory of Enver Hoxha. Enver Hoxha was a long-time communist leader who had died three years earlier. After the fall of communism, the building was used as an exhibition center and, during the Kosovo War, as a NATO base. It is now an IT center.
Museum of Secret Surveillance
Housed in the House of Leaves in the center of Tirana, this museum was a wiretapping center and torture site during the communist era. The museum’s 31 rooms showcase the activities of the secret service with many exhibits, such as wiretaps and recording devices that are more than 50 years old. It also shows how these activities changed society as a whole. The museum is dedicated to those who were spied on, arrested, persecuted, tortured, convicted, and executed during the communist regime. Photography was not permitted.
Bunk’Art
In a suburb, visitors can explore a former nuclear bunker that was intended exclusively for the communist elite. However, it was never used.
Bati Restaurant
As is usual in capital cities, there were also good restaurants in Tirana. I particularly liked Bati.
Nalu Restaurant
The Nalu Restaurant is also highly recommended.
Hike up Mount Dajti
A cable car runs from Tirana up to Tirana’s local mountain, which is protected by the Dajti Mountain National Park.
From the cable car’s mountain station, I reached the 1,612-meter summit of Mount Dajti after a two-hour hike through oak forests.
Breathtaking views over Tirana …
… and the national park
From Tirana, I continued along the coast. My destination was the coastal town of Saranda, 270 km away in the very south of Albania. There was plenty to see along the way.
Durres
My first stop was the seaside resort of Durres, a popular destination for the capital’s residents.
Archaeological site of Apollonia
On the way, I saw a sign on the road pointing to an archaeological site. Always interested, I turned off without hesitation and did not regret the visit. Like so much else in the Balkans, this attraction is unjustifiably little known.
Named after the Roman god Apollo, the city was founded by the Greeks in 558 BC and later came under Roman rule.
I continued south, enjoying the views of beaches and the sea.
View of Vlorë
Dhërmiu Beach
View of Jale Beach
View of Borsh Beach
Saranda
Saranda is a popular seaside resort. The border with Greece and the island of Corfu are very close by.
I had an apartment with a great view.
The view the next morning
There were several beaches to explore nearby.
Manastir Beach
A new holiday resort is currently being built on this beach.
Mirror Beach
Pulëbardhës Beach
Wine Bar Kristiano
This bar is located above Saranda …
… with stunning views over the city.
Ancient city of Butrint
This UNESCO World Heritage Site is located south of Saranda, just a few kilometers from the Greek border. The city consists of numerous palaces, streets, and fortifications, and is extensive and well preserved. I was very impressed!
Founded in the 10th century BC, the Illyrians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Slavs, Normans, Venetians, and Ottomans have all left their mark here.
Blue Eye Syri i Kaltër
20 km from Saranda there is a karst spring from which crystal clear water flows.
The spring
Gjirokastra
This city has also been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its well-preserved old town, historic buildings, and castle.
As early as the 6th century AD, the castle hill was fortified with walls.
Richly decorated historic houses
I encountered many cats in this city too, six of them in this picture.
The castle
View of the area from the castle
As everywhere else in the Balkans, Mercedes vehicles that have been taken off the road in Western Europe continue to drive hundreds of thousands of kilometers here. I particularly liked this model.
On my approximately 200 km journey from Gjirokastra back north to Berat, I passed several interesting places.
After 60 km, I reached the village of Tepelena with its castle, which has since been built over with modern houses. The place is known as the birthplace of Ali Pasha, an Albanian ruler who lived from 1788 to 1822.
Below the settlement, the Vjosa River winds its way through the valley, causing frequent flooding.
Ali Pasha Bridge near Tepelena
The Vjosa River
Even today, due to recurring destruction, there is only a pedestrian bridge across the river.
In addition to pedestrians, sheep also cross the bridge.
After another 50 km, I saw a sign on the side of the road pointing to an ancient site. I wanted to explore it.
Byllis Archaeological Park
This sprawling city was founded in the 4th century BC by the Illyrians.
The remains of a basilica from the 5th century AD.
With 7,500 seats, the city had the third-largest theater in the ancient world! It was built in the 3rd century BC.
Many parts of the city have not yet been excavated.
Çobo Winery
I was unlucky enough to arrive at the winery at the same time as a TUI bus. While the bus tourists were dealt with en masse, the father, who was actually already retired, took care of me. The olive oil tasted good, but the wines were average. There were also olives, cheese, bread, and dried meat to eat. Then the father placed a bottle without a label on the table. It was a freshly bottled wine made from the rare local Vlosh grape. It is the estate’s top wine, which is not usually available for tasting. This wine won me over!
Berat
Berat is a beautiful city, as the many photos show. Thanks to its unique architectural style and the castle perched on a rock above the city, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008.
Two bridges connect the old town with the opposite side of the river. Here we see the Gorica Bridge.
The city is also called the city of a thousand windows.
Inside the church of Berat
The Gorica Bridge at dusk
Berat Castle
As early as 200 BC, there was a fortress on the rock above the town, which was burned down by the Romans. Soon another fortress was built and continuously expanded. The current castle dates mainly from the 13th century AD, the Byzantine period.
There are 20 Albanian Orthodox churches within the castle grounds, all of which are admirably decorated.
View of Berat from the castle
The next day, after an hour’s drive on my way back north, I stopped for a coffee break on the Albanian coast.
Brilliant Hotel near Golem Qeret
After another hour’s drive, I reached the mountain town of Kruje.
Kruje Castle
The Ottomans captured the town and castle in the early 15th century, but Skanderberg, whose equestrian statue I had already encountered in Tirana, was able to recapture the town and castle in 1443 and hold it until his death in 1468, despite three sieges by the Ottomans. After a fourth siege, the town fell back to the Ottomans in 1478.
View of the castle from the town
The path to the castle leads through souvenir stands.
Fantastic view of the area from the castle …
… and of the city
There is a Skanderberg museum in the castle.
View of the castle from the tower
A typical Albanian house
There was also an olive oil mill in the castle.
The next day, I drove to the Montenegrin border in about 2½ hours and continued on to the Ostrog Monastery in the mountains in 1¾ hours.
Montenegro
Ostrog Monastery
The monastery was built into a rock face in the early 17th century and is now the most important pilgrimage site in Montenegro.
I then drove another two hours to Zabljak in Durmitor National Park. When I arrived in the evening, it was bitterly cold in early October, as the village is located at an altitude of 1,456 meters.
Zabljak
Ćurevac hike
After driving through a forest, I reached the parking lot, where the 40-minute hike began. Over hill and dale, I reached the Ćurevac viewpoint, which offers a view of Europe’s deepest canyon, the Tara Canyon. I had expected more.
Sedlo Pass Road
The road from Zabljak over the Sedlo Pass to Plužine, on the other hand, exceeded expectations, as the following photos show.
There was already some snow on the ground.
The saddle that gave the Sedlo Pass its name
View of Lake Piva
On the way back
St. John’s Cathedral in Pišče
A very impressive day came to an end!
The next day, I drove across the border to Sarajevo in about four hours, where I returned the rental car.
Bosnia and Herzegovina
Sarajevo
When I arrived in mid-September, I was walking around in a T-shirt, but a month later it was noticeably colder.
I immediately went to a café that I had visited a month earlier, which served excellent baklava and other sweets.
Baklava
Cathedral of the Sacred Heart of Jesus (Katedrala Srca Isusova)
Built in 1887, this Catholic church is the largest in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque
Dating back to the 16th century, this Sunni mosque is the largest and most important historical mosque in the country.
Museums about the Bosnian War
Four museums are dedicated to the Bosnian War, which lasted from 1992 to 1995.
The Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide 1992–1995 commemorates the terrible acts committed during the war, telling the stories of its victims through photographs and personal items that were found.
The ‘Galerija 11/07/95’ museum uses photos, videos, and maps to give visitors an understanding of the Srebrenica massacre, in which 8,372 Bosniaks were killed by Bosnian Serb troops in one week. The massacre is the most serious war crime in Europe since the end of World War II.
The Siege of Sarajevo Museum shows the siege through the fates of individual residents with personal items, photos, videos, and maps. The siege lasted almost four years. The residents suffered greatly from constant shelling and sniper fire from the surrounding hills. Thousands died due to a lack of food, water, and medical care.
The War Childhood Museum shows the effects of war on children and their childhood. They suffer even more from armed conflict and are scarred for life.
These museums made me sad and thoughtful. It is all the more regrettable that these horrible scenes are repeating today.
When I was confronted with the genocide in Rwanda a few months later, I realized that ordinary people are capable of committing shocking war crimes under the influence of propaganda.
After all, the International Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia in The Hague convicted numerous individuals involved in the Bosnian War as war criminals, including Slobodan Milošević, a former president of Yugoslavia and Serbia, and General Ratko Mladić, under whose command the Srebrenica massacre was carried out.
Avaz Tower
There is an observation deck on the 172-meter-high skyscraper.
View of the city from Avaz Tower
Town hall
View from the yellow fort
More sweets
Sarajevo has excellent patisseries.
Before my return trip, I took advantage of this offer!
City stroll
A month later, people at Sebilj are wrapped up in warm clothes.
Eternal Flame
This memorial with an eternal flame commemorates the victims of World War II in Sarajevo and Bosnia and Herzegovina.
I really enjoyed my month-long trip through Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro, and Albania. Despite the fantastic landscapes, many attractions, and friendly people, these countries are still relatively unknown.
Two weeks later, I embarked on another trip over the winter of 2025/26. My first destination was Tunisia.
This text is an automatic English translation from the German original by deepl.com