December 2024/January 2025
Argentina is one of my favorite countries, so I have traveled there many times. Here you can find the links to my previous trips to Argentina.
Travel report Argentina 2009: Patagonia (Calafate, Perito Moreno Glacier, El Chalten, Fitz Roy, Torres del Paine National Park), boat trip from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt, Chiloe, Puerto Varas, Bariloche, Peninsula Valdès, Buenos Aires
Travel report Argentina 2014: Mendoza and Buenos Aires
Travel report Argentina 2015: Salta, Humauaca, Iruya, Purmamarca, Cafayate, Cachi, Cardones National Park, Ruta 40, San Miguel de Tucuman, Ischigualasto National Park, Talampaya National Park, Laguna Brava, Chilecito, Mendoza
Travel report Argentina 2017: The northwest
Travel report Argentina 2017/18: Bariloche & surroundings
Travel report Argentina 2022/23: Northwest, Buenos Aires, Bariloche and El Bolson
I wanted to discover new places and wine regions on this trip. As I already got to know the wineries around Mendoza in 2014 and 2015, this time my itinerary included the wine regions of San Rafael and the Uco Valley to the south of Mendoza and San Juan to the north of Mendoza. I then flew to the second largest city in Argentina, Cordoba. By bus, I reached other notable cities such as Santa Fe, Rosario and the center of gaucho culture, San Antonio de Areco. From there it was not far to my final destination, the capital Buenos Aires.
Table of Contents
From Chile to Argentina over the Andes
I traveled by bus from Santiago de Chile over the Andean pass ‘Paso Internacional Los Libertadores’ to Mendoza. Despite the long wait at the border, the journey is an experience because the landscapes are impressive.
Thanks to my early reservation, I had the best seat on the bus, at the front on the upper floor with a view of the route.
Mendoza
Mendoza is a green city, as the view from El Faro Bistro shows.
I thought about joining a wine tour one day. However, the wineries to be visited were geared towards mass tourism, so I took the public bus to Bodega Los Toneles, which was only 20 minutes away.
Bodega Los Toneles
As part of the tour, we visited this corridor of huge old barrels painted by an artist. During the tour, we tasted three wines, one even straight from the steel tank.
It is a large and innovative winery that also uses concrete eggs.
The oak barrels
San Rafael
San Rafael wine region
This wine region is located around 230 km south of Mendoza. Malbec is the most widely cultivated variety here.
I have tasted wines in many parts of the world. I usually receive a small amount of different wines in several glasses and have the option of disposing of some of the wine in a container so that I don’t consume too much alcohol. Water is served to neutralize the palate in between. The purpose is to get to know as many wines as possible without getting drunk so that you can then drive to the next winery.
In Chile or Argentina, wine tasting is not known in this form, but the aim is to visit a winery and spend several hours there drinking wine with friends. This is why glasses are filled and the practice of pouring wine away is unknown here. As several full glasses of wine are served, I couldn’t finish the glasses and the tasting was quite expensive. USD 20 is the norm. Sometimes a tour of the winery is included.
Bodegas Bianchi
Binachi is the largest winery in the region and impressed with a modern building. I decided to taste the more expensive wines, but only the Malbec convinced me.
Bodega La Abeja
This winery is the oldest in the area. It was founded in 1883 by the Frenchman Rodolfo Iselin. Many machines from that time are still used for wine production today.
But this car is no longer used.
The winery produces over a dozen different wines, including a sparkling wine. I was able to taste four of them, all of which I liked. I was even given a guided tour in English.
Bodega Alredo Roco
Here, too, the guide was English-speaking. I loved the red wines made from Malbec and Pinot Noir grapes.
Bodega Iaccarini
This winery was founded in 1903 by a Neapolitan, making it one of the oldest in the San Rafael area. Since 2009, the bodega has been owned by the Méndez Collado family, who have continued to invest in the boutique winery. I took part in the Sexto Sentido tour, where the wines are paired with different foods, which changed the taste of the wines. The red wines suited me.
All you need is love and wine
Cañón del Atuel
The main attraction of the province is the Cañón del Atuel which was created by the Atuel River.
On the way to the canyon
I started at the end of the canyon at the Valle Grande reservoir …
… and drove 57 km through the canyon to the El Nihuil reservoir. Impressive landscapes!
The rock formation ‘El Astronauta’
I then drove to the ‘El Tigre’ reservoir, around 30 km from San Rafael. Unfortunately, the colors don’t show up well here due to the lack of sun.
Uco Valley
This valley between San Rafael and Mendoza is home to a wine region that produces many famous wines. On my previous travels, I kept coming across excellent wines from this valley, so it was clear that I wanted to pay a visit to this region.
Bodega Zuccardi
The most famous winery in the valley is that of the Zuccardi family, who built their new bodega in 2016 using the locally available materials of stone, sand and water and the resulting concrete. All the wine tanks are also made of amphora-shaped concrete tanks. Extensive study of the soil and microclimate in the Uco Valley allowed the family to select new and interesting places to grow grapes. In 2022, the wine pope Robert Parker awarded three Zuccardi wines 100 points and in the same year, the winery was named the best winery in the New World by the wine magazine ‘American Wine Enthusiast’. This started the hype and the prices went through the roof. As I was not prepared to pay these prices, I decided against a tour and tasting.
The restaurant of the winery
Restaurant Pajaros Pintados
This restaurant serves an delicious menu with wine pairing at an excellent price.
A huge grape sculpture shows how important winegrowing is in the Uco Valley.
Bodega La Vigilia
This bodega is a modern architectural masterpiece, as the following photos show. Their restaurant ‘Rope’ is said to be highly recommended. As I had just eaten at the restaurant ‘Pajaros Pintados’, I opted for a tour of the winery followed by a tasting and cheese platter.
In addition to steel tanks, this winery also uses amphorae and cement tanks …
… and French oak barrels for wine production.
I liked the ‘Malbec de terroir Amforas 2023’ best, where the fermentation and storage takes place in amphorae. The Rosado Pinot Noir 2023 was also good.
Claroscuro Bodega de Arte
As mentioned in the name of the bodega, there are several works of art in this bodega, but winemaking is also seen as an art form.
The Cucchiara family bought the former Finca San Francisco in 2012 and have been investing in it ever since.
I made a reservation for lunch and was not disappointed. This was the culinary highlight of my trip to Argentina!
Zorzal Wines
This winery is located at the foot of the Andes. I was able to taste some expensive iconic wines here. The ‘La Reina’, made from 100-year-old Semillon vines, was very heavy for a white wine and truly unique. I liked it. The red Iconic wines smelled too strongly of alcohol and therefore didn’t convince me despite the high price.
Bodega La Azul
Afterwards, I drove to Bodega Azul, which is known for its steaks.
It was really good.
The winery specializes in the mass market. Apart from the steak, I didn’t like the uninspired starter, the dessert or the wines. At least a saxophone player set the mood.
Bodegas Chandon
On my way north, I visited this famous bodega. It is the producer of the prestigious sparkling wine ‘Baron B’, which I first encountered at the Christmas dinner of the winery ‘El Esteco’. Bodegas Chandon belongs to the French champagne producer Moët & Chandon, which in turn is part of the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton group. It produces 20 million bottles a year, which are only destined for the Argentinian market.
I was surprised that the ‘Baron B’ is neither sold in the winery’s store nor can it be tasted. It is simply an absolute premium wine. It was only here that I realized what a privilege I had at ‘El Esteco’ when I was served this wine.
The garden of the winery
The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes are harvested early, in January/February, when they are still unripe and have acidity. The same production process is then carried out as in Champagne in France, including bottle fermentation.
The cellar where fermentation takes place in the bottles.
I was able to try the following three sparkling wines, all of which were wonderful. Moët & Chandon is simply a sparkling wine specialist and the money for the necessary equipment and expertise is also available.
On the left is an aperitif wine: a sparkling wine that contains spices and can be enjoyed like a mixed drink. In the middle is the rosé, whose red color comes from brief contact with the skin of the Pinot Noir grapes. On the right is a classic, excellent sparkling wine Blanc de Blanc Cuvée Reserve.
The winery also offers lunch in the restaurant. As I was driving far north on the same day and already had a reservation for lunch, I couldn’t try it out.
Pedernal Valley
From Bodega Chandon, I drove 180 km north past Mendoza to the Pedernal Valley, where the Bodega Graffigna Yanzon winery is located.
Bodega Graffigna Yanzon
I ate a three-course meal in the winery’s restaurant, which was served with two wines from the bodega. The food was good, but I didn’t like the wines or the coffee.
Rancho del Tata Lito
There is no accommodation in the valley on Booking or Airbnb. I was able to book the left dome with the owner Osvaldo via Google Maps and WhatsApp. A special experience!
The owner of the resort recommended that I have dinner at the ‘Aires de Pedernal’ restaurant.
Aires de Pedernal restaurant
This was also a special experience, as I was the only guest and had a table in the garden.
It is run by a married couple. The food and the wine from their own vineyard were excellent!
The next day I hiked up this nearby mountain before I left. In the photo below, very small on one of the peaks on the left, there is a cross that I climbed up to.
View of the Pedernal Valley from the summit
Back at the accommodation, Osvaldo already made a barbecue, which he invited me to join.
It was just before Christmas and he asked me how I was going to spend Christmas. I replied that I didn’t care and that it was an evening like any other for me. He didn’t want me to spend the evening alone and invited me to his brother Mario’s Christmas party in the city of San Juan, which he also attended.
San Juan
San Juan is the provincial capital of the province of the same name. The province is the second largest wine producer in Argentina after Mendoza. I also wanted to visit wineries here. Unfortunately, most of the wineries and museums were closed for the holidays. Nevertheless, I was able to visit a few wineries.
Bodega Merced del Estero
I was able to taste four wines from this winery, but none of them convinced me.
Casa Vinicola El Milagro
This small winery produces with historical machines. Nevertheless, I was impressed by the three wines I tasted. The first was a red wine made from the Cabernet Sauvignon grape. I particularly liked the two sweet wines, a red from the Cabernet Sauvignon grape and a white from the Moscatel grape. I am very reluctant to buy wine because of all the visits to wineries, but I had to have these dessert wines!
In addition to the winery, the owner also produces dried hams, sausages, cold cuts and cheese, which are sold in the store and which I was also able to sample.
I was lucky and was shopping when this hailstorm with hailstones up to the size of golf balls swept over San Juan, lasting only a few minutes. Many winegrowers invested in nets to protect the grapes from hail and the birds. For those without nets, this hailstorm was disastrous.
Christmas party with Mario
As is usual in Argentina, I wasn’t invited to Mario’s family’s Christmas party until 11pm. The family and relatives had already prepared a lot when I arrived. There were about 20 people there, including some children.
The table was covered with delicious food.
Of course, the huge pieces of meat on the grill were a must.
Mario cutting one of the pieces.
I even received a bottle of wine as a gift. I had a mineral sculpture from Chile with me as a present.
I left the party with Osvaldo at 2 o’clock in the morning. He drove 1.5 hours back to the Pedernal Valley in the middle of the night and I drove back to my apartment in the city center.
Drive from San Juan to Barreal
The three-hour drive took me through impressive landscapes that I had otherwise only seen in north-eastern Argentina. Despite the beauty of the landscape, hardly any tourists come here. One reason could be the remoteness of the area.
Barreal
Arriving in the small town of Barreal, I stayed in this lovely accommodation.
As not a single restaurant was open for dinner on the day I arrived over the Christmas period, my hostess cooked a meal for me without even accepting payment.
Bodega Los Dragones
The restaurant in this organic bodega serves excellent dishes. To accompany them, I had the ‘Maida’ Tinto de Corte, which was made from 50% Malbec and 50% Bonarda grapes. Thanks to the Bonarda component, the wine was very tannic, which I love. The wine was excellent, but also had its price.
Bodega Labaguala
This mini-winery is run by Leandro Ruíz, who returned to Argentina to open a bodega on his family’s land after completing his oenological training and spending a year at wineries in California. The friendly boss personally poured me the wines and showed me around the estate.
The bodega is run biodynamically. The manure from his sheep is recycled as fertilizer for the vines.
I liked the red wines. The whites less so, as they contained Criollo grapes, which I don’t like the taste of.
Cemetery and red rocks
Just a few hundred meters from his winery is this cemetery surrounded by red rocks.
Bodega Cara Sur
This winery offers an interesting guided tour. Afterwards, a variety of wines are served with a cheese platter. As with the Los Dragones winery, I liked the blend with the Bonarda grape best. I also didn’t like the white wines because of their proportion of Criollo grapes.
Cerro Alcazar
This massive, impressive rock formation is located 22 km from Barreal. It consists of sediments that were formed in the Triassic period around 190 to 230 million years ago.
Cerro de los siete colores
Five kilometers further towards Barreal is an area known as the ‘mountain of seven colors’. And indeed, the landscape here comes in a wide variety of colors. Impressive!
Only later did the sun shine through the clouds onto the colored stones.
Bodega Alta Bonanza
This small bodega has a German owner who visits once a year. The tasting was free of charge. I liked most of the wines. Only the Malbec Reserva had an alcohol smell that was too strong for my taste.
The winery has received several awards.
Shortly afterwards, it started to rain heavily. My accommodation sent me a message that I should come back immediately, as the village is sometimes hit by mudslides after heavy rainfall and I would then no longer be able to reach the accommodation by rental car. I returned in good time, but I was unable to reach the restaurant I had reserved for dinner due to the risk of flooding and all the other restaurants in the village were also closed, so my hostess cooked for me once again free of charge. Thank you very much!
Parque Nacional El Leoncito
On my way back to Mendoza, I visited this national park 30 km from Barreal.
A 2-hour walk leads up the El Leoncito mountain.
It leads past the internationally operated observatory, which was built here because of the many cloudless nights, the low humidity and the absence of light pollution.
Colorful rock formations
Uspallata
Halfway along the route, I stopped in the small town of Uspallata. The empanadas are an ideal snack.
Around Uspallalta are great landscapes with many colorful mountains. There are also some hiking trails marked on the map. I decided to plan a longer stay here next time.
When I arrived in Mendoza, I returned my rental car, moved into my apartment and went straight to the ‘Restaurante Estancia La Pasión’ after a shower. The restaurant serves excellent steaks at an acceptable price.
Cordoba
The next day I flew to Cordoba, the second largest city in Argentina. It was founded by the Spanish in 1573 and the Jesuits established the country’s first university in 1673. Today it is still an important university city with seven universities. That is why the city is said to have a lively nightlife. Shortly before the end of the year, however, there wasn’t much of it, probably because the students were with their families at the time. Perhaps I also went to bed too early (i.e. before midnight).
Manzana Jesuítica
Manzana Jesuítica is a street block in the middle of the city where the Jesuits worked from 1615. It includes residential buildings, the Iglesia Compañía de Jesús church, the university and the Monserrat secondary school. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000.
Iglesia Compañía de Jesús
This inconspicuous church from the outside was built between 1640 and 1676 and impresses on the inside.
and a few side chapels
This chapel has an impressive ceiling and a carved wooden altar.
Interesting old maps are on display in the museum.
The cloister
Cathedral of Cordoba
This Catholic cathedral ‘Nuestra Señora de la Asunción’ is located directly on the main square Plaza San Martin and is the oldest church in Argentina. Construction began as early as 1582, but the church was not completed in its current form until 1787.
Church and convent Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco
Just a few hundred meters from the Jesuit block is the Franciscan convent and church. The first chapel was built on this site in 1575. The current church was consecrated in 1813.
Iglesia de los Capuchinos
The Franciscan church ‘Sagrado Corazón de Jesús’ is known as ‘Los Capuchinos’ church. It is a newer church, completed in 1934 in neo-Gothic style. This building also impresses with its size and architectural details.
Paseo del Buen Pastor
On the site of a former women’s prison, there is now a cultural, recreational, gastronomic and business center that attracts many people in the evenings.
The market in the north of the city (Mercado Norte)
This market with over a hundred stalls offers a huge selection of fresh food such as fruit, vegetables, meat including offal, fish and cheese. There are also bakeries, pastry shops, cafés and snack stalls offering local dishes.
As the picture shows, there is something for everyone.
The city’s museums were only open sporadically towards the end of the year, but in the end I was able to visit them.
Museum Superior de Bellas Artes Evita Palacio Ferreyra
This art museum is located in the Ferreya Palace, which was built between 1912 and 1916 for Dr. Martín Ferreyra, a doctor and owner of the largest lime factory in Argentina at the time. Over 500 works of art can be seen in 12 exhibition halls.
Museum Emilio Caraffa
This provincial art museum was opened in 1916 and expanded in various stages. It is dedicated to the local artist Emilio Caraffa.
This painting is called ‘La noche del Uturunco’ and commemorates the guerrilla organization Uturunco, which was active in the late 1960s and early 1970s.
Sibaris Restaurant
The best restaurant in town was Sibaris in the Windsor Hotel & Tower. I was even served a ‘Baron B’ sparkling wine here!
Santa Fe
I took the bus to my next destination, Santa Fe, 370 km to the east.
The official name of the town is ‘Santa Fe de la Vera Cruz’, but is just called Santa Fe. It is a quiet little town near the confluence of the Paraná and Salado rivers. These two rivers with their wetlands ensure a high mosquito population in the city.
The government building
The ethnographic museum has been closed for some time.
Dante Restaurant
My favorite restaurant, Dante, was in the theater building.
Bridge Colgante Ingeniero Marcial Candioti
This suspension bridge over the Rio Santa Fe is named after the responsible engineer. Built in 1924, it was partially destroyed in 1983 after devastating floods and then rebuilt.
A beach by the river
The city is proud of its brewery.
In earlier times, Santa Fe was an important trading and transport center for the fertile hinterland, producing grain, vegetable oil and meat. Nowadays, the port is empty. The docks and grain silos have been converted into hotels and a shopping center.
The first Argentine constitution was drawn up by a constituent assembly in Santa Fe in 1853. Unfortunately, the Constitution Museum was closed.
On a walk through a park, I noticed these skins that insects had left on a tree after moulting.
Rosario
170 km along the Río Paraná, I came to another town on the river, Rosario. The city is best known as the birthplace of Lionel Messi, the famous footballer. But the revolutionary Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara was also born here and the Argentinian flag originated in Rosario, too.
Monumento histórico nacional a la Bandera
The historical monument to the national flag was inaugurated in 1957 on the 100th anniversary of the death of Manuel Belgrano. He hoisted the flag nearby for the first time in 1812. It is a large complex that also includes a museum.
At night, it is illuminated in Argentina’s national colors.
Museo Municipal de Arte Decorativo Firma y Odilo Estévez
This museum is housed in the palace of the Estévez family and displays the furniture and furnishings of the family, who were active in the mate trade. Mate is the national drink of the Argentinians. It refers to a tea made from special herbs.
The church Santuario Basílica Catedral Nuestra Señora del Rosario
There used to be a chapel on this site that housed the image of the Virgin of Rosario, which came from Cadiz in Spain in 1773. This church was built at the end of the 19th century. The image of the Virgin is still kept here today.
Biblioteca Argentina Doctor Juan Alvarez
This library is a popular place for students because of its quietness and air conditioning.
Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes Juan B. Castagnino
With over 3,000 exhibits, the museum is the second most important art museum in the country after the one in Buenos Aires. The following two pictures show the creativity of the exhibition.
Acuario del Río Paraná
The river fish of the Río Paraná are presented in around 10 aquariums. The aquarium is located a few kilometers outside the city on the river.
Fish are bred in breeding tanks and then released into the river.
Restaurant Rock&Feller’s Savoy
I ate all three evenings at the restaurant and rock bar Rock&Feller’s Savoy. There was a good atmosphere and the food was excellent.
I was unable to visit the city’s two theaters. The Plataforma Theater had been closed for some time and the Teatro el Circulo only resumed operations a month later, in mid-February.
San Antonio de Areco
200 km further towards Buenos Aires, I reached this historic, colonial town in the Argentine pampas, where the gaucho culture of cattle drovers is still upheld. Only 1.5 hours’ drive from Buenos Aires, the town is a popular weekend or day trip destination for the Porteños, as the inhabitants of Buenos Aires are known.
Tucano Cafe Bistro
This restaurant in a secluded garden is one of the best in the city.
Outside the city, the river ‘Rio de Areco’ meanders through the area.
Museum Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes
This interesting gaucho (cattle drover) museum provides information about the traditions, lifestyle, clothing and riding equipment of the gauchos.
Even the melancholy songs were performed here.
I was lucky that a local festival was taking place that weekend. The pieces of meat were already being hung over the fire in the afternoon.
The highlight was the traditional dances.
Afterwards, the whole town danced along.
The next day, some couples continued dancing.
I then took the bus for the 120 km to Buenos Aires.
Buenos Aires
Once I arrived in Buenos Aires, I realized that all other Argentinian cities and towns pale in comparison to the culinary, cultural and artistic offerings of the capital. Next to Buenos Aires, everything else is provincial.
Here I met a former work colleague who emigrated to Uruguay and has since married an Argentinian.
I’ve been to Buenos Aires so often that I no longer visit the sights.
You can find more information about this city in the Argentina travel reports from 2009, 2014 and 2023.
Casa Rosada
This building is the government building of the Argentine state, where President Javier Milei has been working since December 10, 2023.
Buenos Aires Ecoparque
My colleague and I went for a walk through the Ecoparque, a recreational area near the Palermo district.
La Choripanería in the Mercado San Telmo
My apartment was in the San Telmo district. There are countless food stalls in a large market hall. The choripanería is particularly famous, with people queuing at all hours of the day to get their hands on one of the famous sausage sandwiches.
I ordered the sausage sandwich with blue cheese and spinach. I’m not really a sausage eater, but this sausage was very tasty with its perfect blend of spices.
Puente de la Mujer at the Puerto Madero
The revitalized harbour area of Puerto Madero with the Women’s Bridge is a popular destination for locals and tourists, especially in the evenings.
After five eventful weeks, I left Argentina wistfully to travel on to Cape Town in South Africa via Sao Paulo in Brazil.
This text is an automatic English translation from the German original by deepl.com